After surviving the exhaust cloud that engulfed our bumboat of 12, I alighted on the small island of Pulau Ubin (Granite Island) on the northeast coast of Singapore. Home to about a hundred villagers, some of who rely on fishing for subsistence, Pulau Ubin is a throwback to mainland Singapore before it became the epicenter of modern efficiencies that it is today. There are few paved roads, and villagers rely on diesel generators for power (except for the occasional solar panel array here and there).
After setting off from the visitor’s center towards main street, I was immediately inundated by bicycle rental shops, all advertising the ubiquitous $2 daily bike rental. There were hundreds—if not thousands—of bikes lining the street, fishing for the late-morning tourists. After a meal of Hong Kong style noodles, and buying a bottle of water from a nameless African Grey Parrot who greeted me “Hello!”, I rented a bottom-of-the-line $3 mountain bike, tested that it had at least one working brake, and set off to explore the island.
Although the 4-square mile island claims to have 300,000 visitors a year, I found myself pedaling in complete solitude most of the time, surrounded by lush green flora and out of sight from any human souls. I chanced upon a Red Junglefowl crossing the street (ancestor to the domestic chicken), and spied a black and white Oriental Pied Hornbill having a cackling conversation in the trees. I cycled off the beaten path, past yellow, incense-filled shrines, deserted green drink stands, arching clumps of bamboo and a sleepy orchid farm.
Because of road work I was unable to see the large wetlands on the east end of the island, and I barely got a glimpse of the many quarries, so I’ll have to make a return trip soon.
