A French classicist, a molecular gastronomist, and a pair of Brooklyn Slow Food–ists reinterpret cooking’s most traditional meal.
Prep time:
Not to exceed three hoursRequired ingredients:
Oysters
Turkey
Brussels sprouts
Sweet potatoes
Stuffing
PumpkinBudget:
Not to exceed $150
Left: Oysters Danish style. Right: Turkey ballottine and braised turkey legs.
French Twist
Daniel Boulud gives turkey and all the trimmings gourmet élan.Boulud loves his adopted homeland, but “let’s not kid ourselves,” he says. “Turkey is bland. You need bacon, spices.” His flavorful turkey two ways keeps the breast from drying out before the legs are done. His simple oyster recipe puts the focus on the briny mollusk, while Brussels sprouts fricassee brings a dash of esprit to the mini-cabbage. Crème brûlée in a tiny pumpkin isn’t just dessert; it’s an argument for year-round French and American cuisine overlap.
MENU
• Oysters Danish Style With Cucumber and Pickled-Shallot Relish
• Brussels Sprouts Fricassee
• Roasted Turkey Ballottine Wrapped in Bacon and Braised Turkey Legs With Sweet Potatoes, Rosemary, and Orange
• Pumpkin Crème Brûlée
Left: Deconstructed oyster stuffing. Right: Turkey spaetzle with roasted sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts, Granny Smith apples, and turkey sauce.
The Untraditionalist
Turkey spaetzle, flattened oysters, and pumpkin-and-seaweed custard, à la Wylie Dufresne.Who better to turn Thanksgiving inside out than the culinary mad scientist Dufresne? Classic oyster stuffing became paper-thin crudo with savory topping. The turkey? “I originally thought of turkey tetrazzini, making noodles with the turkey, but that needed special equipment,” Dufresne says, so he simplified to spaetzle—then tossed most of the rest of the meal in with it. The pumpkin is blended with—what else?—seaweed-derived carrageenan to create the creamy custard finale.
MENU
• Deconstructed Oyster Stuffing
• Turkey Spaetzle, Roasted Sweet Potatoes, Brussels Sprouts, Granny Smith Apples, and Turkey Sauce
• Pumpkin Cream With Pumpkin-Seed Crumble
Top left: Caramelized Brussels sprouts. Bottom left: Sweet-potato gratin. Right: Pumpkin pie with pecan-caramel sauce and sweet cream.
Down-Home Brooklyn
David and Laura Shea make Mom’s versions—only better.David and Laura Shea, Applewood’s husband-and-wife team (he’s the chef, she runs the place), heap seasonal favorites upon seasonal favorites: oyster-and-leek soup, stuffing with chestnuts, Brussels sprouts with bacon, pumpkin pie with pecan-caramel sauce. All market-driven, and aided by an old-fashioned secret: lots of butter and cream. It’s Thanksgiving, David says. “Why count calories?”
MENU
• Malpeque-Oyster-and-Leek Soup
• Roasted Turkey With Toasted-Chestnut Stuffing
• Sweet-Potato Gratin
• Caramelized Brussels Sprouts With Applewood-Smoked Bacon, Lemon, and Brown Butter
• Pumpkin Pie With Pecan-Caramel Sauce and Sweet Cream

A breakfast sandwich worth waking up early for: The super-fresh eggs come from contented Lancaster, Pennsylvania, chickens; the thick, smoky bacon from Faicco’s; and the breakfast sausage, kaiser rolls, and buttermilk biscuits are made in-house.
$9; 465 Court St., at Luquer St., Carroll Gardens.

Murray’s Breakfast Melt is a straightahead gourmet McMuffin made with top-notch ingredients including a young Fontina that melts as beautifully as a slice of Velveeta.
$5.99; 254 Bleecker St., nr. Leroy St.

This is the egg sandwich that launched the trend and made Colonel Bill Newsom a household name among country-ham-loving New Yorkers.
$4.75; 135 N. 5th St., nr. Bedford Ave., Williamsburg.

A meatless version, but a good one: softly scrambled eggs with bits of fried sage, melted Cheddar, and the oddly delicious addition of mayo.
$7; 18 Bedford Ave., at Lorimer St., Greenpoint.

Scrambled egg, chewy bacon, and a slab of piquant Cheddar inhabit a split slice of Grandaisy pizza bianca. Available for brunch and lunch in both Brooklyn and Manhattan branches, and at Manhattan’s Cafe Pedlar next door.
$10; See frankiesspuntino.com for info.

The so-called Ship’s Biscuit is a salty square of house-baked focaccia, split and stuffed with excellent ricotta that’s matched in texture by the softest, creamiest scrambled eggs known to man.
$6; 378 Metropolitan Ave., nr. Havemeyer St., Williamsburg.

The pork and egg bun is an unholy mess, but a deeply delicious one, with a deep-fried soft-poached egg spilling its yolk over hunks of pork belly, garnished with cucumber and hoisin.
$9; 207 Second Ave., at 13th St.

Bonus points for neatness: Bark cooks its eggs Mickey D’s style into perfect—albeit slightly dense—circles. The bacon is Nueske’s, the cheese Grafton, and—for any Thomas’s detractors out there—the muffins are Bays’.
$4.75; 474 Bergen St., nr. Flatbush Ave., Park Slope.

Organic eggs and Vermont Cheddar play their roles well, as do the optional add-ons. But it’s the sweet, squishy Portuguese muffins, shipped in from Fall River, Massachusetts, that make it special.
$4.75; 18 Ave. B, nr. 2nd St.
[via NYmag via my sister]
Seriously Nick, I was expecting you to make an appearance out of nowhere during the bridge.