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indiaknight says...

I've just come back from three days in Marrakech. I went to a party for the re-opening of the very grand La Mamounia. It was completely incredible - said party was full of Hollywood A-list and José Carreras sang to us by the swimming pool. But mostly it was incredible because the newly revamped hotel is so *amazingly* luxe. (Tragically - wrongly, frankly - the private jet/giant suite thing is not representative of my life - I went as somebody's guest). There are better pictures than mine on the hotel's own site, but look, here was a bit of our bedroom:

and here's the indoor pool by the giant and astonishing spa. It has a bed in the middle of it. 

Aaanyway: what I wanted to say was, if you're going to Marrakech - which you should, as often as possible, because it's one of the best places to visit relatively cheaply (via Ryanair) - then you need this book, which absolutely made my trip. It's all very well wandering round the souks getting lost and buying tea glasses

or lamps

or shoes

(and getting cross because the Berber souk sells tortoises all stacked up in tiny cages with no room to move, ditto geckos) but if you want to venture slightly further afield - there are fantastic shops in the New Town, for example, but you wouldn't stumble across them unless you knew exa ctly where you were going - or want to know exactly what souk to head for for the one man who has exquisite bags rather than tourist specials and sells them from a hole in the wall, then you need this:

which I've mentioned before but which really is unbelievably well-judged and helpful. Here's the Amazon link (easiest way of getting it - it's from a US publisher). Read My Marrakech, too - Maryam, its author, was one of the researchers on said book, can take you shopping if you book her in advance and is doing up a guesthouse that looks like it'll be heaven to stay in. She also has a shop which you can buy from online. 

And that is all. I'm sitting at my desk watching the pouring rain and feeling as though the whole thing was a lovely hallucination. 

Filed under: Morocco

PHiLOS says...

My wonderful friend Mostafa over at Moussem Tents (http://moussemtents.posterous.com/) sent me these pics he took last week in Morocco.

He is finishing off his Riad in Fez and soon there will be another amazing place to stay in this stunning and fascinating city. I hope to get there in the new year and really immerse myself in the place, have wanted to go for years. 

When I see pictures like this it makes me stop and think what an amazing world we live in and how we owe it to ourselves to go out and explore it more - can't understand people who always want to stay where they are and not see any of this amazing planet.

               

 

Filed under: Morocco

Nae says...

                                       
Click here to download:
Friendly_Faces_and_Faraway_Pla.zip (18456 KB)

Filed under: Morocco

wanyama says...

IT training for kids who live in the surrounding farm areas of Stutterheim outside East London in the Eastern Cape. South Africa. Photo: Trevor Samson / World Bank

IT training for kids who live in the surrounding farm areas of Stutterheim outside East London in the Eastern Cape. South Africa. Photo: Trevor Samson / World Bank

It has been a famous rallying cry that Africa’s internet growth will continue skyrocketing. Research studies have proved the possibility of a viable market within certain countries in the continent. With the introduction of various fiber optic projects across the continent, faster and cheaper internet will become a major benefit for internet connectivity in Africa.

Internet penetration within the continent sits at 5.6% while the rest of the world enjoys a 26.9% average. Within Africa, the only countries with penetration higher than 20% include: Mauritius (26.7% of 1.275 million people), Reunion (27.4% of 803,209 people), Seychelles (37.0% of 86,595 people) and Tunisia (27.0% of 10.38 million people). Morocco is close to breaking the 20% barrier at 19.2% of 34.3 million people. Penetration within these countries allows the web to play a greater role in the everyday lives of people with access. Other than Tunisia and Morocco, most of these countries have a small population within tiny island nations allowing for greater penetration.

While it is true that the web will become a force in Africa, it won’t be so without a few deliberate decisions on both the part of policy makers and business people. Currently, the web is used to access outside destinations and information in most African countries.

Why is this significant? Until the internet experience is relevant to day to day operations of a people, it is very hard to make it a must have tool. In the US, the web is used from when one wakes up till the moment they retire to sleep. A single day will have someone checking email, reading the news, catching up on blogs, shopping, interacting with friends, banking, work intranets, learning through research, entertainment, and many more. Within Africa, I have found that the internet is used effectively by a select few. For everyone else, this is a great tool for communicating and meeting people through social networks such as Facebook.

Browsing through the Top Sites per country on Alexa.com is an interesting experience. In the US, the first foreign site ranked that I could identify is BBC at number 55. I think of a foreign site as one where content is created predominantly for a country outside your own. The Google country versions are a special case and I will treat it as such. Outside of the US, whenever you type google.com, the country version shows up instead of the global site. So I treat Google country sites as a similar iteration to the global site. Out of the top 100 sites within the US, I could only identify BBC as a foreign site.

In Japan, China and the UK, I found US sites but also a good amount of local web sites relevant to the country. In China for example, none of the global powerhouses such as Google and Yahoo led the way. These country leading sites cover a wide range of fields from shopping, recreation, local and government services, entertainment, news, resources and many others.

In Africa, this is not the case. The top Nigerian site ranks 16th among the leading sites. Nigeria though has around 22 sites within its top 100. South Africa’s first site is ranked 8th with a healthy 42 sites within its top 100. Egypt’s top site is ranked 8th while Morocco’s is 9th. Kenya’s top site is 12th with 25 sites amongst the top 100.

In my opinion, until African governments start investing in better websites to assist its citizenry, until corporations both large and small start delivering services or improve workflows online; we will always trail the rest of the world. While connection speeds and the drop in prices are major factors in the growth of web penetration, so will the delivery of every day services that consumers and citizens expect from their corporations and governments respectively.

Cheaper internet will mean more people will have a chance to go online. But how sustainable will the web be in Africa without great local content? We can all visit Facebook and BBC and laugh at YouTube videos, but we need local content outside of news to make the internet a truly living and breathing organism. Services such as job and real estate searches, car buying, shopping, local entertainment and the like will be important.

This brings me to the final missing piece that I think is as relevant as a conscious shift in strategy by both governments and corporations. Online Payment Services. Discussion on payment services will require a separate post, but until a payment system is established in Africa that is respected and accepted by both locals and the world at large, ecommerce in Africa will be a dud. Fraud has rocked so many banks and online payment services. For every new payment product made available, a hundred hackers try to figure out a way to steal from them. This has become a major pain for most companies and international ones have learnt to avoid Africa like the plague. We need a stable, robust and scalable solution that work in most African countries. Once that is established, I think we will be on our way to realizing the potential of the web and the smart phones in Africa.

 

Filed under: morocco

aliceayel says...

Recently, I enjoyed watching this controversial Moroccan movie by the female Muslim director Laila Marrakchi.

"The title Marock is a play on words based on the French name of Morocco Maroc and Rock as in Rock'n Roll.
Set in Casablanca, a Moroccan Muslim teen falls for a handsome and progressive-minded Jewish boy. High school is drawing to a close for 17-year-old Rita (Morjana Alaoui) and her carefree friends. When Rita meets fun-loving Youri (Matthieu Boujenah) and the pair hit it off, her liberal Muslim family's open-minds soon begin to close when they discover that their daughter's new boyfriend is Jewish." from Wikipedia.

I thought the tone was a bit naive as it is about teenagers and first love but behind the romance, we discover Morocco today. A country divided between rich and poor and where rich youngsters are living the same kind of life as youngsters in the western part. We also discover a liberal country where girls and women are quite freed from Muslim tights but where there is a strong divide between religious groups, in this case Muslims and Jewish. What stroke me was that Rita's brother comes back from the UK more Muslim than when he was living in Morocco. I thought the ending was a bit coward. Laila Marrakchi did not want to confront with a a difficult choice and so chose an "easier" way to end the film! But I will let you watch it and decide ;)

I also think it is a good film for French learners as wealthy Moroccan people still speak French most of the time and go to prestigious French schools to study. It makes you aware of the strong French legacy in Northern Africa.


Filed under: Morocco

Amarantacee says...

Anyone wandering through Morocco should check out the Dadès Gorge. Whether you drive or walk, both are viable options to stir up awe and inspiration.

Filed under: morocco

Months ago, I promised pictures of Moroccan sushi (it gave me a legitimate excuse to go back and spend tons of money on happy happy fish!).  The only problem is that they still did not have tuna: "Tomorrow, in sha Allah."  Well, as a result I had to try the King Crab Roll, which consisted of oodles of crab.  That's it.  Crab.  

Crab and me, we go way back, but this was a bit too much crab for Miriam.  I've finally found a point where I had enough crab.  The salad was interesting, and it was certainly a relief to have a dressing that wasn't just watered-down mayonnaise.  It was a wasabi vinaigrette and there wasn't any lettuce, instead shredded carrots and cabbage, but they were in strips that were so long that they wrapped around the bowl and were difficult to navigate into our mouth's without flinging dressing on our shirts.  The ambiance was unparalleled modern chic in Fes, where most expensive restaurants emphasized the Moroccaness of their features as opposed to contrasting it.  

I have since moved to Oman and live an hour and a half away from Dubai and Abu Dhabi.  The culinary opportunities are much greater there, but most of the fine restaurants are at hotels and are beyond the reach of a student's budget.  We did have amazing catered Chinese appetizers at a US Dept of Commerce function, though.  Can't remember the restaurant, but ... I thought I saved a cocktail napkin.  Most restaurants in town are very inexpensive Lebanese, Syrian, or Indian places.  I have been meaning to do a couple write-ups on them.  First, I had to put my house in order!  The most recent food events have been the weekly dinners hosted by one of our group of students.  We have had Nepalese food, Philipino and Thai food (that was me, of course), Chicken Alfredo, Breakfast-for-Dinner, Variations on Chicken with Bros. Special Sauce, Biryani, and tonight Aaron whipped up some amazing vegetable lasagna which is a departure on his vegan-matzoh-Passover-kosher lasagna.  We will be going to Jordan, and possibly Kenya and Tanzania, where I will most definitely have things to report!  Food!  Happy feasting!

     
Click here to download:
Miriam_Morocco_Sushi_Pictures_.zip (394 KB)

Filed under: morocco

frostyland says...

"The 24th Marathon des Sables or Marathon of the Sands took place recently. The grueling six-day foot race across the Moroccan Sahara is one of the toughest in the world. The race covers 151 miles but was shortened this year because of bad weather. Many participants give up before reaching the finish line because of the rugged terrain that ranges from sandy to rocky. The daily average temperatures during the race are 86 degrees. Competitors run as far as 50 miles a day and are required to carry their own water and food. Water is rationed and handed out at checkpoints."

Filed under: Morocco

This weekend's culinary adventures can be united by one thing (other than price): no mayonnaise on salad!  Hooray!  We went to a sushi restaurant on Saturday night.  We had heard nothing but praise for this restaurant with people saying that it was even better than Nobu and all the best and favorite sushi places in America.  Braced for the high prices, we took a petit taxi to Kiotori, a chain of Japanese restaurants in Morocco.  The decor was sumptuous with the chefs working on the floor above us, showcased in glass.  I bet you've never seen a sushi waitress wearing a headscarf before.  The first disappointment of the night came with the announcement that they had no tuna.  NO TUNA?!  TUNA IS SUSHI!  We had to rethink our entire order when we realized that we had planned to eat tuna in nearly every dish.  Instead, we had a nice unagi/roe/avocado/crab roll, a crunchy roll with tempura shrimp and some heavenly sauce (maybe the best eel sauce ever), and then some kappamaki, tekkamaki with salmon instead of tuna, and california rolls with and without cream cheese.  This came with a salad and miso soup.  The salad was comprised of long strips of finely shredded cabbage and carrots with this horseradish vinaigrette.  It was a bit difficult to eat with chopsticks.  The miso soup had tofu (!!!!!!!), our first since coming here.  They served it in a cute bowl with a lid, but it wasn't piping hot and the spoon was stoneware, which was remarkably heavy!  The second disappointment was at dessert, when they had neither the passionfruit nor lychee ice cream listed on the menu.  I was even going to just order a handroll: it was mango, avocado, and tempura shrimp with other yummy things, but they couldn't do that either!!  Probably a good thing we left it at that, because we spent nearly $50.  For Morocco, that is LUDICROUS.  For sushi, that is about par for the course.  We thought we'd splurge anyway, since we missed the trip to Marrakesh.  As an added bonus, they took MasterCard, so we didn't have to pay out all our cash.

Today, we went back to Cafe Clock (which I may not have posted on this blog).  It's run by a Brit in the Medina Qadima and is incredibly popular with tourists.  It is a very nice cafe, but the prices are most certainly tourist prices.  I was hell-bent on going to the Medina today, even though it was raining.  I didn't realize that the streets would be rivers of mud, but we got to the cafe without getting too filthy and then I ordered their famous camel burger, which came with fries and salad.  The fries were light, not drowned in oil like most fries in Morocco.  Unfortunately, without a dip, I think I would have preferred oily fries!  Back to the sandwich: it was AMAZING.  It was my first time having camel, but it was out of this world tasty.  They dressed it up with "taza ketchup."  I have no idea what that means, but it was just like haroset, which is a Jewish dish served at Passover and is sweet, made with fresh apples, dried dates, raisins, apricots, figs, walnuts, and wine.  We like to eat it with raw horseradish on matzoh.  Digression aside, it was an interesting and complimentary addition to the meat, which also had an onion slice, lettuce, and tomato.  As per my usual, the onion went to Aaron and I enjoyed the burger slowly.  The salad that came with the meal had a horseradishy vinaigrette!  And hence the connection between sushi and camel burger.  I also had a mocha and then a hot chocolate (it's rainy, forgive my drink choices), but this is the only place I've ever had unsweetened mocha and hot chocolate.  This is especially surprising since most Moroccan drinks are comprised of sugar with some liquid on the side.  Pictures are of Cafe Clock, I need to get the sushi ones off my camera.

   
Click here to download:
Miriam_Sushi_and_Camel_Burgers.zip (434 KB)

Filed under: morocco

Here are pictures of Moroccan food:

Lamb and Quince Tajine at Al Fassi Restaurant in the Sofitel Palais Jamai Hotel, Fes.  
Next is the dessert at the same restaurant on the prix fixe menu.  Note the very light portion!
Bisarra - a white bean, garlic, olive oil, and cumin soup.  Available from many street vendors, retail at about $1.
Addis - lentils cooked with lemon and spices and oil.  About $1.25.
Hummus - not the Lebanese style you're used to, this is just cooked chickpeas.  Sometimes the chickpeas are a bit hard.  $1.25.
Fancy Fruit Guy - Vendor of all your favorite exotic fruits including raspberries, lychee, mangoes, strawberries, prickly pear, and the like.
A mostly finished platter of couscous.  One of these fed about 8 people!  I have taken cooking classes with Laila, the housekeeper, and have recipes for couscous, hummus, harcha (semolina breakfast thing), and tajine.  Tajines are conical clay pots that you cook meat and vegetables in.  Oftentimes, the food is cooked in big vats and then served in a tajine (that's at a restaurant).  At home, you can use small to large tajines to cook up to 3 people's worth of food.

             
Click here to download:
Miriam_Pictures_of_Moroccan_Fo.zip (16385 KB)

Filed under: morocco